Sunday, 24 June 2012

No... No.... No...!


Driving through Maoist heartland,
 I felt bladder pressure. Driver refused to stop car. Instead, says: do it inside the car. I’ll wash it later with phenyl.” Why? Why?



FEAR is real!

ARUP CHANDA, Publisher & Editor-in-Chief

 


“Stop the car.”
“No.”
“What!” I exclaimed.
I badly want to take a bathroom. leak.
We have left the hotel too early and I was in a hurry as the man whom I have to meet had called me thrice as he has reached the coal mine where we are supposed to meet.
We had left Ranchi, the state capital Jharkhand around 7 am, after taking a bypass crossed a crowded vegetable mandi at Mandar. Since then I was feeling uneasy.
We were on National Highway 75.
National Highway 75 is 1,175 kms long and links Parsora in Orissa to Gwalior in Madhya Pradesh. The 147 km stretch between Gwalior and Jhansi has been selected as part of the north-south corridor by the National Highways Development Project.
On both sides were jungles and not a single human being could be sighted so I thought this was the perfect place and I was carrying toilet paper too.
I literally slapped on the driver’s shoulder and asked him, “Have I hired you or you are going to pay me end of the day? If you don’t stop immediately I am going to call your owner just now and will not pay you a single pie.”
My threat did not work. In fact, he increased the speed and the jungles on both sides became dense.
“Sir, there are some newspapers on the back. You do your bathroom on the floor of the car. Once we reach North Karanpura I will clean the vehicle with phenyl but not stop the car,” replied Sagar sporting a Hrithik Roshan style hair style and wearing jeans and T-shirt with crocodile logo.
“You might even throw the shit on my face but even then I will not park the vehicle here. Are seeing any truck or any car stopping here?” he asked.
I came to know the reason after reaching a place called Khalari where a the local correspondent of Prabhat Khabar Vinod Pandey was waiting for me.
We finished our business about my story on coal in North Karanpura Coalfields within few hours and went for lunch on a road side dhaba called, Jheel Restaurant.
The dhaba overlooked a huge pond which one would think was a mini sea and the water was blue and a cool breeze was blowing even on a sunny and hot afternoon though the air was full of coal dust.
The sky was blue, the water was clear but everything under the sun was evil as I came to know the story of the highway in Jharkhand from the truck drivers who had stopped by for “dal tarka, roti” with onion, green chilli and pickle on charpoys with Haywards 5000.
Though there were plastic tables with chairs they preferred to sit with folded legs on the “khatias” with a wooden plank in between which served as a table.
Those who could afford were having “desi” chicken fry as they hated “faram” chicken meaning broilers.
The first thing Pandey did was to warn me that I should not mention that I had come on behalf of a foreign newspaper. I should say I have come as a reporter of Bengali newspaper from Kolkata.
Pandey, a Brahmin from Uttar Pradesh, is a teetotaler and I hate strong beer. So I sent Sagar to fetch some lager beer for us. Some of Pandey’s friends who owned trucks for local transport of coal were also there to meet me and be my host.
The long distance drivers hence had already leant about my arrival.
The drivers passed lewd jokes of not being able to digest strong beer about my potency as a male!
The first thing I asked was for a place to relieve myself. I was lucky that I was given an iron bucket with an iron mug but to go to the field behind the dhaba. Having worked in the north east region of the country for a long time during the height of insurgency it was nothing new to me.
As we poured beer in tea glasses and started drinking with fried pea nuts and fried desi chicken I mentioned about Sagar not stopping the car on our way to Khalari near the jungles where the stretch was desolate.
Ramashish Das, a truck driver who hails from Madhubani in north Bihar and regularly plies between Ranchi and Gwalior, was aghast. “Saab, aap pagal hain!” (Sir, are you mad?)
“That is one of the stretches where we drive at break neck speed. Inside the jungles are Maoist hideouts. It depends when they will suddenly come armed with AK 47s and grenades and stop all trucks and demand cash,” he said.
Like Das, other drivers too narrated their experiences.
The 447 km stretch on NH75 is out of bound for any vehicle after sunset and before sunrise. The police itself does not allow because of the Maoist problem. The Maoists have the local tribal support too and that is why they can attack during the day time too particularly in stretches which have dense jungle and inhabited by tribals.
Most fleet owners other than cash to be paid as bribes to police and RTOs provide Rs 15,000 to Rs 20,000 to given to Maoists if their vehicles are waylaid.
“They are not interested in the goods or harming us. They will simply blow up the truck with the goods. They need the cash to buy weapons, ammunitions and their supplies,” said Sonu Singh who once had the experience two years ago and had to walk back to Ranchi along with the pamphlets the Maoists gave him.
The Maoists at times are sympathetic too. They give time to the drivers of they know they are not carrying cash but have mobile phones.
“They will give us an hour or so to speak to someone in Ranchi, Palamau or Daltonganj whichever place is near and arrange for cash to be delivered. But if the time runs out by a minute they will blow up the vehicle. At times, our maliks did arrange for cash within half an hour. None dares to inform the police and take such risks because they will ultimately trace the truck owner and gun him down,” said Singh.
But more than the Maoists are highway bandits who in the garb of Maoists loot trucks.
“They are much more dangerous. They will hijack the truck and take it deep inside the jungle. Torture the driver and take away whatever cash he is carrying and leave him there in half dead condition. They usually target vehicles carrying pharmaceutical goods, tyres, FMCG, durable consumer goods, which can be easily sold in open market,” said Ajoy Mishra who happens to be from Orissa.
These bandits are in league with the police and it is an organized racket, it is alleged. The goods are taken in a different truck to secret warehouses and easily find their way to wholesalers who sell them at a concession to retailers.
Then is the story of local transporters who transport coal.
They have to pay a levy each month to the Maoists.
Last year the Maoist in North Karanpura Coalfields launched an attacked and burnt down 17 trucks belonging to private contractors to teach them a lesson.
“We cannot operate without paying them as they feel we are exploiting the region,” said Sonu Pandey from Ranchi who owns two trucks ferrying coal from the open cast mines to the loading stations where it is put in the rakes.
Abdullah Ansari, who drives a Tata Safari, has to pay extra as he also has a contract with Central Coalfield Limited, to load coal from the open cast mines.
I was taking notes and oblivious of the time. But not Sagar.
“Sir, the sun is about to set, So, its time for us to leave immediately.” He said.
I could not agree more!
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